Water still in the tub in the morning, a Kuna dishwasher that hums and quits, glasses that stay cloudy whichever soap you buy.
Monday–Friday 7:30–5:30 · Saturday 8–1 · closed Sunday
Every machine in Kuna gets the same treatment: $99 for the meter, a single figure on paper, the warranty term on the invoice.
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repair
Washing Machine Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repair
Clothes Dryer Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repair
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repair
Ice Maker Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repairA dishwasher in Kuna gets whatever water the house gets, and that splits the town in two. In the subdivisions along Hwy 69, Ten Mile Rd and the streets around Indian Creek downtown, the supply is city water through a softener in the garage, and the dishwasher is the builder’s Whirlpool or Frigidaire from the same year the drywall went up. Head south and east onto the acreage, out Swan Falls Rd or along Kuna-Mora Rd, and the supply is a private well, and the dishwasher sees sand, iron and scale in every fill. The two kinds of house fail differently, and the technician asks which one it is before the truck leaves Nampa.
In the subdivisions the calls are pumps and boards: a drain pump stalled on a chip of glass, a control board that went blank after a summer brownout, a heater that reads open on a six-year-old machine. On the well properties the calls are water: an inlet valve packed with grit that lets in half a fill, a spray arm whose holes are plugged with iron, a float switch fouled with sediment, and a family who cannot understand why a two-year-old dishwasher leaves glasses cloudy when the old one at their last house never did. That one is a filter conversation as much as a repair, and both get a written number.
A drain pump jammed or dead, a drain hose kinked against the cabinet, or a disposal knockout that the installer forgot. We clear the sump screen and test the pump; a burned motor means a new pump. In a new Kuna kitchen the knockout is checked first, since it is the cheapest fix there is.
On city water, a softener out of salt or an empty rinse aid dispenser. On a well, sand and iron in the fill and scale on the element. We look at the softener, the fill volume and the crust on the element, then adjust the machine to suit its water. A failed part gets its own written price.
The control saw something it did not like: no water arriving, no heat rising, or a drain cycle that never finished. A code narrows it. The inlet valve, heater, thermistor and float switch each get metered in turn, and whichever reads wrong is the one replaced, rather than guessing at the board.
Weak spray. A spray arm plugged with scale or grit, a worn impeller on the wash pump, or a choked inlet valve letting in a short fill. The fill gets measured against spec and the circulation motor metered; then we clean or swap whatever those readings single out.
The thermal fuse in the door has blown, the control board has failed, or the outlet under the sink is dead because it shares a circuit with the disposal. The outlet is the first stop, the door fuse gets metered next, and only then does anyone blame a board.
Usually a gasket that has gone flat on the door, a spray arm rubbing the seal, a pump seal that weeps or a sump with a crack in it. We pull the kick panel, start a cycle and trace the drip back to its source. On a new install, sometimes the machine was never leveled and the door seal cannot close evenly.
The cabinet under the sink is where the visit begins. Is the supply valve open, is the softener bypass sitting where it should, does the drain hose loop high, was the disposal knockout ever punched? After that the kick panel comes off and a cycle starts: fill volume checked against the model’s spec, heater tested for continuity and current draw, drain timed with a watch. On well water south of Kuna the inlet screen comes off and gets a look, because a screen full of sand explains a short fill without any part having failed. If a part has failed, we tell you which one, why this water killed it, and write a single price down. If nothing has failed and the water is the problem, that is what you hear instead.
We repair Whirlpool, Frigidaire, GE, KitchenAid, Bosch, Maytag, Samsung, LG, Kenmore and Electrolux dishwashers, from the builder packages in the subdivisions off Hwy 69 to the Bosch units people carry into a remodel. The first stop of the day suits households that both commute to Boise; a Saturday morning suits the rest. A landlord with a rental near downtown Kuna approves by text, then finds a photo of the old part, the invoice and the warranty in email. The rule does not bend for the water source: $99 for the diagnosis, and once you say yes to the repair that $99 is simply part of the total; every dishwasher repair in Kuna gets its price after the meter, written down.
Probably not. Iron and hardness in well water dry onto glass as a film no dishwasher part removes. A working softener, an iron filter where the water needs it, and rinse aid do the job. We check the fill, the element and the softener on the visit, and if the machine is sound you pay $99 and hear what to put ahead of it.
Meter it first. A blown door fuse or a drain pump on a five-year-old Whirlpool or Frigidaire is an ordinary repair. A control board and a wash motor together on the same machine may not be. For the $99 you get the part named and a number on paper, and the decision is yours with a real figure in hand.
Flip its breaker off for two minutes and back on, and check that the outlet under the sink has power, since it often shares a circuit with the disposal. If it still will not wake, the board or the door fuse has been hurt, and we meter both before naming which. Summer brownouts send several of these calls from Kuna each year.
It does. A dishwasher drains through the disposal on most Kuna kitchens, and if the plug inside the disposal inlet was never knocked out, the dishwasher cannot drain at all. On a new install with a full tub it is where we look first, because it costs nothing and it is the cause more often than anyone expects.
Same week, often the next day, and most jobs close in one visit because the truck carries pumps, valves, heaters and gaskets for the brands Kuna buys. When a board or a part specific to your model needs ordering, the return visit is at the figure you already approved, with nothing added for the second trip.
The phone is quicker; the form lands on the same desk. Both get you a text with a window, and until a technician has had a meter on the machine the only figure anyone quotes is $99.
Open the request formRing the shop or fill in the form; dispatch answers with a window, and a text follows as the truck pulls off Davis Ave — first stops go to the Boise commuters, Saturday mornings to everyone else.
Measurements come before opinions: amps at the compressor, degrees on the shelf, ohms across the element. The failed part gets its everyday name from the technician, who then writes the repair as a single figure, $99 folded in.
The shelves on the truck hold what this valley wears out — inlet valves, defrost heaters, heating elements, igniters, drain pumps, rollers. When something must be ordered, the return trip happens on our calendar and the figure you approved stands.
The machine runs a whole cycle while you watch, panels and floor go back the way they were, and the invoice that reaches your email carries the warranty term.
$99 puts a meter on the machine. The repair goes on the ticket as one figure with that $99 inside it, the part is usually riding in the truck, and the invoice states the warranty term. Parma pays what Davis Ave pays.
