An LG washer shows two letters and stops. OE, UE, dE, IE: the display is telling you which check failed, not which part to buy.
Monday–Friday 7:30–5:30 · Saturday 8–1 · closed Sunday
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repair
Washing Machine Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repair
Clothes Dryer Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repair
Dishwasher Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repair
Range, Oven & Cooktop Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repair
Ice Maker Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repairLG front-loaders are the washer in a lot of the stacked laundry closets in the apartments and townhomes off Garrity Blvd and in the rentals around Northwest Nazarene University along Holly St and Dewey Ave. The LG direct-drive top-loaders sit in farmhouse mudrooms out toward Wilder and Parma. Either way, the machine watches itself with a handful of sensors and stops the cycle with a two-letter code the moment one reading falls outside what it expects. OE, UE and dE make up most of the calls. Each one is a check the board could not pass. What actually failed, whether it is a sock, a sensor, a hose or the board itself, takes a meter and a look inside.
Local conditions supply most of the causes. Wells around Homedale and the Sunnyslope bench carry iron that stains whites orange and leaves grit in the drain pump until OE becomes a weekly event. A softener in a newer Nampa build that nobody has salted since move-in lets scale collect in the inlet valve, and IE follows. Heavy loads from field work and from the farm-labor housing near Golden Gate Ave in Wilder throw the drum off balance and post UE more often than any bearing does. And a brownout from an August thunderstorm along Hwy 20-26 can leave PF on the display of every LG in Notus at once.
| Code | Meaning on the display | Likely cause, in order | One safe check | Our fix |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| OE | Drain timed out before the tub emptied. | A drain pump filter full of lint, grit and hair ties, then a drain hose kinked or too deep in the standpipe, then a drain pump whose impeller has broken loose. | Twist out the drain filter cap behind the little door at the bottom front, over a towel and a shallow pan, and clear it. | We clear the filter and the pump housing, meter the pump motor, check the hose route, and replace the pump when the impeller has come loose on the shaft. |
| UE | The load is off balance and the washer could not correct it. | A single heavy item or a lopsided load, then a washer sitting unlevel on the floor, then worn suspension rods or dampers. | Rock the washer corner to corner. If it moves, turn the feet until it sits still, then rerun with a balanced load. | We level the machine, check the suspension and the drum bearings by hand, and replace rods, dampers or the bearing and seal when the drum has play. |
| dE | Door reads open to the board, whether it is or not. | The door not latched over a bunched gasket, then the door lock switch, then the latch hook out of line, then the harness. | Open the door, fold the gasket lip back into place, shut the door until it clicks and start again. | We meter the door switch and lock, check the hook alignment, and replace the lock assembly when the switch does not change state. |
| IE | Water is not coming in fast enough. | Supply taps not fully open, then inlet screens clogged with scale or well sediment, then the inlet valve, then low pressure on a rural well. | Open both taps all the way and make sure the fill hoses are not pinched between the washer and the wall. | We time the fill, clean or replace the screens, meter each valve coil, and replace the inlet valve when a coil reads open. |
| LE | The motor could not turn the drum, or the board lost track of its speed. | An overloaded drum, then the rotor position sensor on the back of the motor, then the stator or the board. | Take out half the load, wait a few minutes with the washer unplugged, and try a spin. | We check for drag in the drum, meter the hall sensor and the stator windings, and replace the sensor, motor or board as the readings show. |
| FE | Overfill: water rose above the level the board set. | A scaled inlet valve seeping past its seat, then the pressure sensor, then the pressure hose. | Shut both supply taps. If the tub keeps rising with the taps closed, the taps are bad; if it stops, the valve inside is. | We meter the inlet valve for a leaking coil and test the pressure sensor against a known level, then replace the valve or sensor. |
| tE | The water temperature sensor is reading open or shorted. | The thermistor in the heater assembly, then its connector, then the heater or board. | Pull the power cord for a few minutes and start a cold cycle. If tE returns, the sensor needs a meter. | We meter the thermistor against its chart, check the heater for a short to ground, and replace the sensor or heater. |
| PE | The pressure sensor is not reporting a sane water level. | A pinched or cracked pressure hose, then a sensor fouled with detergent scale, then the sensor. | Unplug for a few minutes and run a rinse. If it fills forever or stops at nothing, leave it off. | We inspect the pressure hose and dome, test the sensor output at a known level, and replace the sensor or hose. |
| CE | The motor drew more current than the board allows. | A drum jammed by a coin or wire, then a shorted motor winding, then the control board. | Empty the drum and turn it by hand. A clunk or a stuck spot is your answer; do not run it again. | We find what is jamming the drum, meter the stator for a short, and replace the motor or board when the readings say so. |
| dHE / AE | dHE: the dryer heater on a washer-dryer combo failed. AE: the leak sensor found water in the base. | For dHE, the drying heater or its thermistor. For AE, a leaking tub-to-pump hose, a cracked drain filter cap, or a gasket tear. | For AE, shut the taps, unplug the washer and look under and behind it for water. Leave it off until we arrive. | We meter the drying heater and sensor for dHE; for AE we pull the panel, find the leak with the machine filling, and replace the hose, gasket or seal. |
| PF | Power failed during the cycle. | An outage or brownout, then a loose cord at the outlet, then the board. | Press start to resume. If PF posts with no outage, check that the cord is fully seated in the outlet. | We check voltage at the outlet, then look the board over for a relay burned by a surge; a board that passes its test stays where it is. |
| CL | Child lock is on. The buttons are ignored on purpose. | Someone leaned on the panel, then a stuck button. | Hold the child lock button, marked with a small padlock, for three seconds until CL clears. | If CL will not clear, we test the panel for a stuck key and replace the control panel when a key stays closed. |
The code sets the order of the visit. We read what is stored, clear it, and start the LG test mode, which steps through fill, drum turn, drain and spin so we can watch each check as it runs. That reproduces the fault instead of relying on the story from last Tuesday. Then the meter goes where the code points. A drain code means the pump comes apart, and around Lake Lowell and Melba the housing is usually holding sand and a hair tie. A motor code means the hall sensor is measured before the motor is blamed. A sensor code means the thermistor is checked against its chart and the connector is checked for corrosion, since a green pin posts the same letters as a dead sensor.
We answer to no manufacturer. Syringa does not sell LG washers and is not the maker’s dealer, so there is nothing on the invoice but the repair. When a washer is young enough that the maker may still cover it, particularly the drive motor, we say so first and the choice is yours. Drain pumps, inlet valves, door locks, hall sensors, pressure sensors, gaskets and suspension parts for the common models ride along on the truck. Stators and main boards come by order and go in on a second visit that carries no fee of its own. Once the metering is done we write down one number, and the $99 lives inside it. Should you pass on the repair, $99 covers the visit outright.
Almost always the drain filter, which nobody has cleaned since the machine went in. Twist it out behind the small door at the bottom front, over a pan. If OE keeps posting after that, the pump impeller or the drain hose route is next, and we test both. For rentals, the owner’s go-ahead comes by text and the invoice reaches the owner’s inbox.
Usually not. UE is the drum refusing to spin up because the load is lopsided or the washer is rocking on the floor. Level the feet and try a balanced load first. If the drum has play when you lift it, or it rumbles in spin, the bearing and seal are worn, and we confirm that by hand before pricing it.
Often. Well sediment and scale close the screens at the inlet valve until the fill runs past the time limit. Iron and sand are the usual offenders around Melba and across the river in Marsing. The screens get cleaned or swapped and the valve gets metered, and we will say whether a sediment filter upstream of the washer would stop it recurring.
It clears the display, which is not the same as fixing the cause. PF, CL, UE and dE often stay gone if you fix the load or the door. OE, IE, LE and the sensor codes come back on the next cycle if a part has failed. Two minutes off the wall is worth trying once; after that, a meter.
The diagnostic is $99, the same in Caldwell as on Davis Ave in Nampa, and there is no mileage line. That $99 pays for the code read, the test cycle and the meter work. If you approve the repair, it is counted inside the written price. If you decide to replace the washer instead, $99 is the whole invoice.
Plain meaning of each code, what tends to be behind it here, one check you can make, then our part
Open the code list →
Plain meaning of each code, what tends to be behind it here, one check you can make, then our part
Open the code list →Plain meaning of each code, what tends to be behind it here, one check you can make, then our part
Open the code list →The phone is quicker; the form lands on the same desk. Both get you a text with a window, and until a technician has had a meter on the machine the only figure anyone quotes is $99.
Open the request formRing the shop or fill in the form; dispatch answers with a window, and a text follows as the truck pulls off Davis Ave — first stops go to the Boise commuters, Saturday mornings to everyone else.
Measurements come before opinions: amps at the compressor, degrees on the shelf, ohms across the element. The failed part gets its everyday name from the technician, who then writes the repair as a single figure, $99 folded in.
The shelves on the truck hold what this valley wears out — inlet valves, defrost heaters, heating elements, igniters, drain pumps, rollers. When something must be ordered, the return trip happens on our calendar and the figure you approved stands.
The machine runs a whole cycle while you watch, panels and floor go back the way they were, and the invoice that reaches your email carries the warranty term.
$99 puts a meter on the machine. The repair goes on the ticket as one figure with that $99 inside it, the part is usually riding in the truck, and the invoice states the warranty term. Parma pays what Davis Ave pays.