A Bosch dishwasher in Nampa stops with E24 or E15, a tub that will not drain or a tap symbol that stays lit. The code names the check that failed.
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Ice Maker Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repairBosch dishwashers turn up in the remodeled kitchens of the 1920s bungalows near Lakeview Park, in the newer houses on the Sunnyslope bench outside Caldwell, and in the upgrade packages off Lake Hazel Rd and Amity Rd. They are machines with a control that watches the fill, the drain, the heater and the float. When one of those checks fails, the cycle stops and an E number goes on the panel, or a tap symbol lights on the models with a hidden display. The number identifies the check. E24 is drain, E15 is the float. Neither is a part name, and neither says whether the cause is a pump, a hose, a knockout plug or a puddle.
Water is the local ingredient in most of these codes. Nampa and Caldwell city water is hard groundwater, and the wells around Marsing and Homedale are harder still, so scale coats the heating element until E09 posts, and hazy glassware is the sign that the salt reservoir went empty weeks ago. The Bosch built-in softener helps only when the salt reservoir is filled, and in a rental near NNU that has usually never happened. New construction adds its own error: a disposal knockout plug never punched out in a Middleton or Kuna kitchen means the dishwasher cannot drain from the first cycle, and E24 greets the owner the week they move in.
| Code | What the display means | Usually behind it | Safe to check first | What we do |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| E15 | Water has collected in the base pan and lifted the float. The dishwasher will not run until it is dry. | A leaking door seal or a dish blocking the door, then a loose hose clamp or a cracked sump, then overfill from a stuck inlet valve. | Unplug or switch off the dishwasher, pull it forward a few inches if it slides easily, and let the base dry overnight with a towel under the front. | We pull the kick panel, dry the pan, run a fill with the door open to find the leak, and replace the seal, hose, sump gasket or inlet valve that is dripping. |
| E22 | The filter is clogged, or the sump is holding water it should have drained. | A filter full of food and scale, then a blocked drain path below it, then a drain pump impeller. | Lift out the lower rack, twist out the cylindrical filter, rinse it under the tap and seat it back until it clicks. | We clear the sump below the filter, check the drain pump impeller for glass and pits, meter the pump, and replace it when it hums without moving water. |
| E24 | The dishwasher cannot drain. | A kinked or flattened drain hose behind the cabinet, then a knockout plug still in the disposal, then a clogged air gap or sink connection, then the drain pump. | Run the disposal for ten seconds with water running, then start a drain cycle. A new disposal that has never had a dishwasher on it may need the plug punched out. | We check the hose route and high loop, clear the disposal inlet or air gap, meter the drain pump, and replace the pump or reroute the hose. |
| E25 | The drain pump is jammed, or the cover over it has popped off. | Glass, a fruit pit or a label wrapped around the impeller, then a pump cover unclipped, then a failed pump. | Remove the filter, look into the sump for glass or a bottle cap, and lift out anything you can reach with a spoon. | We open the pump cover, clear the impeller, check for a cracked cover, meter the pump, and replace it when the motor tests open. |
| E09 | The heating element is not raising the water temperature. | Scale over the heater from hard water, then the heater itself, then the relay on the control board. | Check the salt reservoir on the tub floor. If it is empty and the glasses are hazy, refill it before we arrive so the test is fair. | We meter the heater for resistance and ground leakage, check the board relay, descale the tub if the heater is good, and replace the heat pump assembly when it fails. |
| E01 | The control electronics reported a fault in themselves. | A power surge, then a wet connector in the door, then the control module. | Switch the dishwasher off at its wall switch or breaker for two minutes and start a short cycle. | We test the power module inputs and outputs, check the door harness for water, and replace the module only when it fails on clean power. |
| E04 | The water distribution valve that sends water to the spray arms is not moving as expected. | Scale on the diverter, then the diverter motor and its position sensor, then the board. | Spin both spray arms by hand and clear the little holes with a toothpick. Blocked arms make the diverter work harder. | We meter the diverter motor and sensor, run the diverter through its positions in test mode, and replace the diverter assembly when it stalls. |
| E17 | Water is coming in faster or higher than the control expects. | High supply pressure, then a flow meter reading wrong, then an inlet valve that does not shut off cleanly. | Turn the supply valve under the sink a quarter of the way toward closed to drop the pressure, then try a cycle. | We check how much water each fill takes, meter the inlet valve and the flow sensor, and put in a new valve if it fails to close, or a new sensor if the count is off. |
| E18 | Water is not coming in. The tap symbol usually lights with it. | The supply valve under the sink closed or half closed, then a scaled inlet screen, then the inlet valve or the AquaStop hose. | Open the supply valve under the sink all the way and make sure the water-line hose is not pinched by the drawer beside it. | We check flow at the supply, clean the screen, test the coil with a meter, and fit a new inlet valve or a new AquaStop hose. |
| E19 | The valve on the internal heat exchanger did not open or close. | Scale in the heat-exchanger valve, then the valve solenoid, then the board output. | Switch the dishwasher off for two minutes and rerun. If E19 returns, hard water has been at the valve. | We meter the solenoid on the heat-exchanger valve and the board output that drives it, then fit a new valve if it binds. |
| E20 | The circulation pump motor is drawing the wrong current. | Scale binding the pump, then the winding, then the board that drives it. | Refill the softener salt if it is empty. Then switch off for two minutes and try a rinse cycle. | We meter the circulation pump windings against the chart and check the drive output, then replace the heat pump when it reads open or shorted. |
| H:01 / H:02 | Not a fault. The delay-start timer is set; the number is hours until the cycle begins. | Someone pressed the delay button while wiping the panel. | Press the delay or timer button until the display shows 0 hours, then press start. | If the timer will not clear, we test the panel for a stuck key and replace the control panel when a key stays closed. |
The diagnosis follows the code. We read the fault memory with the button sequence, write the codes down, clear them, and run the service test, which fills, circulates, heats and drains in short steps so the fault appears while we watch. A drain code sends us to the filter first and then to the sump with a flashlight; between Lake Lowell and Melba the pump housing is usually holding grit and a shard of glass. A heat code means the element is metered for resistance and for leakage to ground, and the tub gets a look for scale. A float code means the machine is filled with the door open until the drip shows itself. When the code traces back to a hose or a knockout plug, that is what gets repaired.
Syringa is independent of the makers. We are not Bosch’s dealer and we sell no dishwashers; we repair the one in your kitchen. Where the machine is young enough that Bosch may still be covering it, we say so before the $99 is spent and let you decide. Drain pumps, inlet valves, door seals, float switches and diverter motors for the common Bosch models ride on the truck, and most drain and fill codes close the same visit. Heat pumps and control modules are ordered and fitted on the return trip with no second diagnostic. After the diagnostic every repair gets one written number, and once you approve it that number already holds the $99. Turn the repair down and $99 closes the visit.
In new construction around Kuna and Middleton the usual answer is the disposal. A new disposal arrives with its dishwasher inlet plugged by a knockout, and when nobody punched it out the water from the dishwasher has no exit. Run the disposal, then check for a kinked hose. If both are fine, we meter the drain pump.
It is the most common cause we find. Scale from Nampa city water insulates the heater until it cannot bring the water up to temperature in time, and the control posts E09. Filling the built-in softener with salt slows the buildup. We meter the heater to see whether it survived and descale the tub if it did.
Because the leak has not been found. E15 is a float in the base pan, and drying the pan resets the float without fixing the drip. A door seal, a loose hose clamp, a cracked sump gasket or an overfilling inlet valve are the suspects. We take the kick panel off, run the dishwasher, and wait for the first drop.
Holding start for three to five seconds, or switching the power off for two minutes, clears most codes. A code that was caused by a clogged filter, a closed supply valve or a knockout plug stays gone once that is fixed. E09, E20, E01 and a returning E15 are parts problems, and those need a meter rather than another reset.
Yes. Marsing and Homedale are on the route out Hwy 55 and Hwy 95, and the crossing does not show up on the invoice. The well water on that side is hard and often carries iron, so heater and fill-valve codes are common there. Same $99 diagnostic, counted inside the written repair price, same written warranty.
Plain meaning of each code, what tends to be behind it here, one check you can make, then our part
Open the code list →
Plain meaning of each code, what tends to be behind it here, one check you can make, then our part
Open the code list →Plain meaning of each code, what tends to be behind it here, one check you can make, then our part
Open the code list →The phone is quicker; the form lands on the same desk. Both get you a text with a window, and until a technician has had a meter on the machine the only figure anyone quotes is $99.
Open the request formRing the shop or fill in the form; dispatch answers with a window, and a text follows as the truck pulls off Davis Ave — first stops go to the Boise commuters, Saturday mornings to everyone else.
Measurements come before opinions: amps at the compressor, degrees on the shelf, ohms across the element. The failed part gets its everyday name from the technician, who then writes the repair as a single figure, $99 folded in.
The shelves on the truck hold what this valley wears out — inlet valves, defrost heaters, heating elements, igniters, drain pumps, rollers. When something must be ordered, the return trip happens on our calendar and the figure you approved stands.
The machine runs a whole cycle while you watch, panels and floor go back the way they were, and the invoice that reaches your email carries the warranty term.
$99 puts a meter on the machine. The repair goes on the ticket as one figure with that $99 inside it, the part is usually riding in the truck, and the invoice states the warranty term. Parma pays what Davis Ave pays.