A burner that snaps and never lights, an oven in a Middleton kitchen that stalls at 300°F, an F-code on the panel after a summer storm. Gas, propane, electric and glass-top.
Monday–Friday 7:30–5:30 · Saturday 8–1 · closed Sunday

Every machine in Middleton gets the same treatment: $99 for the meter, a single figure on paper, the warranty term on the invoice.
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repair
Washing Machine Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repair
Clothes Dryer Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repair
Dishwasher Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repair
Ice Maker Repair$99 with a meter · rides inside the repair
Middleton cooks on three fuels. The streets served by Intermountain Gas, which means most of the subdivisions between Middleton Rd and Hwy 44, have gas ranges; the builder packages there are mostly Whirlpool, GE and Frigidaire freestanding units with a glass-top electric option in some plans. The acreage past the town limits runs on propane, with a tank out by the shop building, and a range converted for propane by whoever installed it. The older farmhouses along the county roads have electric coil ranges that have been baking since the eighties. The truck comes up from Nampa on Middleton Rd or Hwy 44 and carries igniters, bake elements and surface switches for all three.
The July call in Middleton is a control board. An Idaho Power brownout during a thunderstorm drops the voltage for a second, the range clock resets, and some boards never come back cleanly. The panel shows an F-code or nothing at all. The winter call is an igniter: a gas oven that takes ten minutes to light, then bakes cold, has an igniter that glows as bright as ever while pulling less current than the gas valve asks for. A homeowner on a street north of Hwy 44 had been cooking Thanksgiving with the oven on 425°F to get 350°F. The igniter metered at 2.6 amps, well short of what the valve needs. New igniter, twenty minutes, and the oven held temperature within a few degrees on the next cycle.
A wet or cracked spark electrode, burner ports plugged with field dust or a boil-over, or a dead spark module. We clean the ports, check the cap seating, meter the module and replace the electrode from the truck.
A weak igniter. It glows, but at low current the safety valve never opens fully. We meter the amperage under load, replace the igniter, and check temperature at the center of the oven through a full preheat.
The bake element, often with a visible blister or break. We meter it for continuity, test the relay that feeds it on the board, and fit the new element. A glass-top with a dead burner is a similar test on the radiant element and the surface switch.
A range converted to propane with the wrong orifices or a regulator set for natural gas. Common on Middleton acreage. We check the orifice size and the regulator pin and set the air shutters, then confirm a blue flame at every burner.
Usually a temperature sensor that reads wrong, a lock switch on the door, or a board fault after a power event. The code gets read, the sensor gets metered at room temperature, and the lock gets checked before the board is condemned.
Temperature sensor drifting, a convection fan that has quit turning, or a door gasket no longer holding the heat in. We log the temperature through three cycles and meter the sensor, then fix the piece that is actually off.
Every range visit begins with the supply. On gas, the technician confirms pressure at the manifold and watches each burner light; on propane, the regulator and orifices get a look before anything else, since a bad conversion mimics half a dozen other faults. On electric, both 240-volt legs are confirmed at the terminal block. Then the oven runs: igniter amperage under load on gas, element resistance on electric, temperature sensor resistance against the chart, and a thermometer at the middle of the oven watched across a whole preheat. An F-code is read from the panel and cleared, and the fault gets reproduced before a board is blamed. The part that failed gets its plain name, and the repair is written up as one number.
Middleton ranges, wall ovens and cooktops from the Whirlpool, GE and Frigidaire builder packages in the developments off Middleton Rd to the propane ranges on the acreage are regular work, along with the Samsung, LG, KitchenAid, Bosch and Electrolux units in the remodels and the Maytag, Kenmore, Amana and Hotpoint ranges in the farmhouses. Households commuting to Boise on Hwy 44 get the early window; Saturday mornings are open for the rest. A rental near Main St can be handled through the owner, who approves by text while the invoice and the warranty are emailed, with the gate code and the dog noted on the request. The pricing here is simple: the $99 diagnostic is the first line of any repair price you approve, not something added to it, and a declined repair leaves the bill at $99. A range repair is only ever priced after the meter work, in writing.
Yes. A lot of the acreage past the subdivisions cooks on propane, and a range converted with the wrong orifices burns yellow and soots the pans. We check the conversion, the regulator and the air shutters and set it right. The tank and the line to the house belong to your propane supplier.
Not always. A brownout can leave a code stored that clears with power off for a few minutes. If it returns we meter the temperature sensor and the door lock, because those throw codes far more often than the board fails. The board is the last thing we blame, not the first.
Glass-top radiant elements, surface switches and the glass itself where the maker still supplies it, yes. Induction cooktops we repair at the board and coil level where parts are available; some builder-grade induction units have limited parts and we say so up front before you spend past the diagnostic.
No. A gas oven should light within a minute and reach 350°F in twelve to fifteen. A slow preheat is a weak igniter on gas or a tired bake element on electric. Both are common on the builder ranges around five to eight years old and both are truck-stock parts.
A brief smell as the burner catches is normal. Gas that keeps flowing with no flame is not; turn the knob off and call. Usually it is an electrode not sparking or a port plugged with debris. We do not want you leaning over an unlit burner with a match, and neither does your kitchen.
The phone is quicker; the form lands on the same desk. Both get you a text with a window, and until a technician has had a meter on the machine the only figure anyone quotes is $99.
Open the request formRing the shop or fill in the form; dispatch answers with a window, and a text follows as the truck pulls off Davis Ave — first stops go to the Boise commuters, Saturday mornings to everyone else.
Measurements come before opinions: amps at the compressor, degrees on the shelf, ohms across the element. The failed part gets its everyday name from the technician, who then writes the repair as a single figure, $99 folded in.
The shelves on the truck hold what this valley wears out — inlet valves, defrost heaters, heating elements, igniters, drain pumps, rollers. When something must be ordered, the return trip happens on our calendar and the figure you approved stands.
The machine runs a whole cycle while you watch, panels and floor go back the way they were, and the invoice that reaches your email carries the warranty term.
$99 puts a meter on the machine. The repair goes on the ticket as one figure with that $99 inside it, the part is usually riding in the truck, and the invoice states the warranty term. Parma pays what Davis Ave pays.